Review: Hush Brasseries, St Paul’s

Cheers

“I’ll just have a quick lunch. After all, I have an exam on Thursday.”

SIX HOURS LATER…. my friends and I re-joined the outside world. Hush Brasseries, already established in Holborn, have recently opened in St Paul’s and offer all-day dining, with breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea menus, and even ‘brown bag’ take-out lunches for a fiver.

Camomile Tea, Peach Juice & Honey

Camomile Tea, Peach Juice & Honey

We called in for the soft opening offer, which gave us 50% and a free spritzer. We ordered  Chenin Blanc & Elderflower with Violet Liqueur and topped with Lemonade (£4.95), which was fantastic – subtle and not overly sweet. I ordered a Peach Tea – Camomile Tea, Peach Juice & Honey (£3.95), which was no match in comparison, although again, it wasn’t too sweet as is so often the case.

Half price food meant that we just *had to* order three courses. With a different starter/main/dessert each. So here follows a comprehensive review of their menu. 

Starters

Caesar Salad

Caesar Salad

Caesar Salad with Poached Egg and Bacon (£5.95) – Described by my friend N as the best Caesar salad she had eaten out in London, the portion was generous and the ingredients crisp and fresh.

Lemon Sole Fish Fingers

Lemon Sole Fish Fingers

Lemon Sole Fish Fingers with Tartare Sauce (£6.95) – Very tasty, if a little small.

Dressed Dorset Crab

Dressed Dorset Crab

Dressed Dorset Crab with Avocado and Melba Toast (£7.95) – Light, zingy and refreshing. My friend J was seriously impressed.

Pulled Pork & Yorkshire Pud

Pulled Pork & Yorkshire Pud

Pulled Pork, Yorkshire Pudding with Apple and Calvados (£8.95) – This was my choice because I am a meat fiend. The pork was tasty but the meat was not as moist/soft as it could have been. The Calvados was not detectable and the gravy was too heavy. I found the flavours didn’t quite hang together, although the idea sounds good in theory. I’d like to see this dish reworked.

Mains

Crispy Duck Salad with Honey and Mustard Dressing

Crispy Duck Salad with Honey and Mustard Dressing

Crispy Duck Salad with Honey and Mustard Dressing (£12.25) – The duck was coated in hoisin sauce, which I absolutely love, but some might find a little overpowering the context of the salad. I thought the chillies could have been more finely chopped but overall, this dish was extremely satisfying in the concoction of flavours it offered.

Roast Cod with Béarnaise Sauce

Roast Cod with Béarnaise Sauce

Roast Cod with Béarnaise Sauce, Frites (£15.95) with a side of Minted Peas and Broad Beans (£2.95) – This dish was supported by the béarnaise sauce because the cod was a little underwhelming on its own. The chips were perfectly crisp.

8oz Scottish Rib-Eye Steak

8oz Scottish Rib-Eye Steak

8oz Scottish Rib-Eye Steak with Frites (£16.95) – This was my choice and sadly the most disappointing dish of the evening. I asked for it medium-rare and it came medium, although unpleasantly charred on the outside. The meat itself was lacking in flavour and I almost considered breaking my “finish everything on my plate” rule because eating the steak was a bit of a chore rather than a pleasure.

Taglierini pasta with Half Lobster

Taglierini pasta with Half Lobster

Taglierini pasta with Half Lobster, Chilli and Garlic (£18.50) – the star of the evening. I only sampled a bit of the pasta but it had a rich combinations of flavours and – if I remember correctly – used fennel to great effect (I find fennel often overpowering so I was very impressed). 

Desserts

Classic Crème Brulée

Classic Crème Brulée

Classic Crème Brulée (£5.85) – J: “This is the best crème brulée I’ve ever tasted.”

Mars Bar Cheesecake

Mars Bar Cheesecake

Mars Bar Cheesecake with Crème Fraiche (£5.95) – N: “I want to marry this dessert. It’s not for good times or bad times, because there will never be bad times.” I also tackled this dessert, with emphasis on tackled. It is huge and very rich although the tangyness of the crème fraiche really helped to counteract the sweetness.  Eating this cheesecake provides very many good times.

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Pot

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Pot

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Pot (£4.95) – This is like a very dense chocolate mousse that is served warm. The chocolate itself is of superb quality but  the dessert is served with orange sprinkled on top. And it’s a really strong orange flavour, which somewhat detracts from the chocolate even if you love orange. 

Chocolate Brownie with Earl Grey Ice-Cream

Chocolate Brownie with Earl Grey Ice-Cream

Chocolate Brownie with Earl Grey Ice-Cream (£5.45) – The brownie was rich and moist but the Earl Grey ice-cream caused a storm.

J: “I want to fill my fridge with this ice-cream!”
L: “Forget the fridge – I want to fill my face!”

My friends were so impressed with the desserts that they demanded to meet the dessert chef but he was apparently quite intimidated by the prospect of meeting four females who had been proposing to his puddings, and decided to remain in the kitchen!

Late afternoon

 'Wall Street' cocktail

‘Wall Street’ cocktail

Another friend joined our group. Our conversations continued.

I was very kindly given a complimentary cocktail and so I sampled their ‘Wall Street’ cocktail (£7.50) – Russian Standard Vodka, honey, apple juice, fresh passion fruit and raspberries. The flavours created a seamlessly smooth crisp and refreshing drink.

This decided it: we will return even just for a dessert and cocktails evening.

It was approaching dinner time and we were full. Sleepily and happily, we staggered into the outside world after nearly six hours. … Hmm … I was supposed to be studying for an exam? Never mind. My food coma made everything seem all right.

Hush Brasseries 4/5 – Hello delicious desserts and drinks. 

Food 3.5/5 – The starters and mains ranges from average to very good, but the desserts are fantastic.
Value 3/5 – Standard for London and food quality.
Atmosphere 5/5 – Laid back. Spent 6 hours there without notic
Service 5/5 – Prompt, not pushy. Efficient yet warm.

Website: http://www.hushbrasseries.com/
Where: St Paul’s – 1 Ludgate Hill, EC4M 7AA; Holborn – 95-97 High Holborn, WC1V 6LF
When:
St Paul’sMon-Fri 8am – 10.30pm; Saturday 9am – 10.30pm; Sunday 9am – 10pm / Holborn: Mon-Fri 8am -11pm;
Saturday 9.30am -11pm; Sunday – closed.

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