July 2013 – Pheebz Eatz

Review: Wahaca

SCROLL DOWN … for lots of pretty pics at the bottom!

I’ve been hearing good things about Wahaca for ages. Self-advertised as Mexican street food, it’s bound to be a winning formula. Plus they’re keen to emphasise the ethical side of the business, by buying UK-only meat from ‘trusted’ farms, although their chicken is not free-range. Their branch at Southbank is particularly interesting – it’s built from 8 recycled shipping containers and also acts as a trial location for new dishes (I don’t know if they’re still serving up grasshoppers, but from the sounds of things, we can expect some exciting stuff).

Despite my slow introduction to Wahaca, I’ve now been to both the Covent Garden and Charlotte Street branches. I enjoyed my meals both times. The décor is fresh, colourful and modern, the staff extremely helpful and food is delivered promptly and beautifully presented.

Then there’s the food. You can’t really go wrong when ordering at Wahaca, but equally you won’t have a taste-induced orgasm. The food is simple, tasty and uncomplicated, but never rises above pleasant to be really, truly moreish. As a result, it’s been a tricky review to write – for those of you who’ve been, do you agree?

There are two options for ordering at Wahaca: you can either order lots of little dishes and share (recommended) or take a large plate for yourself.

It seems to be a classic to start off with their Guacamole with Tortilla Chips (£3.85). These are perfect for preventing any table-cloth-gnawing whilst waiting for the rest of the dishes, although they never take long to arrive. The chips are fun to munch but I find the guacamole a little bland for my tastes.

One of the most popular little plates is the Pork Pibil Tacos (£3.95) – slow cooked in a Yucatecan marinade with ‘fiery’ pickled onions (it’s a lie – they’re really not that spicy). This is the option for all meat-lovers out there. And whilst I’ve ordered this twice now and would order it again, it is too salty and a little one-dimensional in its taste.

Black Beans & Cheese Quesadillas (£3.60) make a good veggie option but again, there’s nothing too complicated happening taste-wise.

For dessert, the Chocolate Tres Leches Cake (£4.95) with peanut butter ice-cream sounds divine but is actually pretty light on chocolate. Instead, I recommend the Salted Caramel Ice-Cream (£4.25) with shavings of shavings of Valrhona chocolate – but only if you’re prepared to lick the bowl clean in appreciation.

Salted caramel ice-cream with Vahlrona chocolate - OMG — Salted caramel ice-cream with Vahlrona chocolate – OMG

A ridiculously good value deal is the Wahaca Selection (£19.95) for two people to share. It is so generous that many may be defeated and the variety is great: 3 pork pibil tacos,1 large broad bean quesadilla, 3 chicken tinga tacos, 2 black bean tostadas, 2 new potato taquitos, and Wahaca slaw.

Check out some of the dishes below:

One final point: if you want to drink wine at Wahaca, you have to drink it out a thick glass because wine glasses don’t exist in Mexico!?!

Have you dined at Wahaca? Opinions? Is there some divine dish I’ve yet to try? Hit me with your thoughts.

Wahaca 3/5 – Great atmosphere and service. It’s a crowd-pleaser – not spectacular, but perfect for eating out in groups if you haven’t booked anywhere and need some reliable, tasty food.

Website: http://www.wahaca.co.uk/
Where: Bluewater, Canary Wharf, Covent Garden, Charlotte Street, Islington, Soho, Southbank, Stratford, Waterloo, White City
When: Various, see website.

Review: The Pavilion Café, Victoria Park

What is better than a hearty, good quality brunch?

One with gorgeous view and a whole host of wildlife.

And when I say wildlife, I mean all the animals from moorhens and Canadian geese to the denim-fur clad hipsters and their prized petits pooches. This is Victoria Park; this is the epitome of gentrification.

The Pavilion Café on the edge of the lake has nestled right in on the edge of the lake. And it’s perfect for a glorious weekend brunch.

Admire the hipsters whilst sipping a very fresh apple and beetroot juice.

Apple and beetroot juice, modelled by two geese

Reminisce over last night’s party with Monmouth coffee cappuccino.

And let’s not forget the sausage and bacon sourced from the outstanding Ginger Pig butchers. In fact, I could never forget Ginger Pig bacon. I think I would ~~go crazy~~ become even crazier if I were told I could never eat it again (vegetarians: beware – it will turn you).

The Full English - isn't it beautiful? — The Full English – isn’t it beautiful?

The Full English (~£9?) is great. Everything is cooked to perfection. The sourdough toast is moreish and not too dry. The only slightly strange item is the home-made beans, which contain fennel and are just plain peculiar.

Veggies – there are terats for you too. The veggie breakfast comes with spinach and halloumi as well as all the usual items.

The Pavilion Café 4/5 – Breakfast, brunch, lunch? It doesn’t matter. Get your Full English here and enjoy the view.

Website: http://www.the-pavilion-cafe.com/
Where: Victoria Park, Crown Gate West, E9 7DE.
When: Summer – Mon 8am – 4pm, Tues – Sun 8am – 8pm; Winter – daily 8am-4pm

Review: Bordeaux Wines at Zoo Lates

Zoo Lates. An adults-only party at London Zoo. I must admit I was a little sceptical. Was this really going to be appealing? And surely allowing alcohol-fuelled revellers to run about in close proximity to wild animals is a recipe for disaster?

Well, I’ve yet to hear of any humans being munched or of any alcohol-poisoned animals, but I’ll say that on my first point, I was entirely wrong: Zoo Lates is deliriously good.

It’s a carnvalesque party that borders on the surreal. Imagine crowds of people dressed as animals, drinks and street food in hands, strolling around and admiring animals. I wouldn’t want to tackle what this scenario says about human nature. Instead, let’s take it for what it is: crazily good fun.

This meerkat just rocketed off the cuteness scale

Women dressed in feathers, giant twister, a ball park and lots of costumes brought out the kids in everyone. Plus there were lots of awe-inspiring animals, and feeding demonstrations and talks, including an introduction to the Zoo’s newest residents, Sumatran tigers Jae Jae and Melati, who live in a swanky £3.6m Tiger Territory.

Oh, there was also a drag queen swallowing balloons.

I, of course, tucked straight into the street food and got this fabulous Girzzly Bear burger (£7 – smoked bacon and bacon jam) from Burger Bear Tom. It was perfectly seasoned with just the right amount of sauce and the patty was succulent and flavourful. It was a good start to the evening.

Bordeaux Wines are supporting the event and have deployed some smartly-dressed usherettes with trays of free samples.

A lucky few of us were invited to Bordeaux Jardin du Vin for some more in-depth wine-tasting… in the name of quality control purposes, of course!

We were given a little background information…

Bordeaux is a very large wine-producing area in France, with around 100,000 hectares of land producing 700 million bottle a year. Bordeaux Wines’ motto is “good food would choose Bordeaux” and, having been brought up by foodie parents who drink a lot of Bordeaux wine, I would have to agree.

We sampled the following:

Château du Puy Bonnet 2010 – This is a very approachable red from the Montagne Saint-Emilion region on the right bank of the Dordogne. It was smooth and full-bodied, with a warm fruitiness.

Château La Freynelle 2012 – Combining Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle grap varieties, this is a light and fresh wine, with floral undertones.

Dourthe No. 1 2012 – A dry, classy and elegant accompaniment to seafood or summery puddings, it has a deep and complex flavour with perhaps a whisper of raspberries?

Château Simon 2009 – A juicy dessert wine from the Sauternes region of France. It is made from Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle grapes that have been infected by noble rot, causing them to be partially raisined. This wine steered away from extreme sweetness and had delightful hints of grapefruit and barley sugar.

For more information on Bordeaux wines, click here, or check out this video (there is a familiar face at 1.19…):

Sadly, Zoo Lates is sold out for the rest of the summer, but I advise you to sign up to the mailing list to be first in line for tickets next year.

Review: The Modern Pantry

Chilli and curry leaf waffles with smoked bacon and maple syrup

Stop! Alert! Some seriously good brunch has been discovered.

I visited The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell back in March but somehow missed reporting just what a charming place it is.

Think of light, airy rooms with high ceilings and large windows. Think of a simple yet stylish interior in grey and white.

Think of a brunch menu that includes BEEF RENDANG and CURRY LEAF WAFFLES and almost no traditional British fare that the aesthetics imply, and that one would expect on a brunch menu.

For lovers of bacon and eggs, fear not – these may be obtained. However, there are some adventurous items on this menu that are bound to please.

Rendang on toast with crispy quail's egg — Rendang on toast with crispy quail’s egg

I took the Rendang Mince on Toast with a Crispy Quail’s Egg (~£9?). Rendang is a beef curry that originate from Indonesia but is popular across other parts of Asia, including Malaysia, Singapore and the Phillippines. It uses coconut milk and a mix of spices such as ginger, turmeric and lemongrass.

And this beef rendang was delicious. It had a confident amount of spice and flavours that thoroughly warmed the palate. It vanished from my plate all too quickly, and sadly seems to have vanished off their brunch menu.

When I visit next time – for there will be a next time – I plan to tuck into Grilled Cornbread with Chorizo, a Fried Egg, Sweetcorn, Avocado & Red Pepper Salsa (£8.80), which one of my co-diners was very pleased with.

There are also Sweetcorn, Feta, Green Chilli & Curry Leaf Waffles with Smoked Streaky Bacon and Maple Syrup (£8.80). From what I sampled, the waffles seemed a little mild but I definitely need to order the whole dish to confirm this properly.

If you happen to be around Clerkenwell at lunch or dinner time, The Modern Pantry also offer a mouthwatering All Day Menu.

… So please expect further investigation upcoming on the blog.

The Modern Pantry 4/5 – Welcoming atmosphere and an interesting brunch menu.

Website: http://www.themodernpantry.co.uk/
Where: 47-48 St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, EC1V 4JJ
When:

Café
Monday: 8am – 11am & 12pm – 10pm
Tuesday to Friday: 8am – 11am & 12pm – 10.30pm
Saturday: 9am – 4pm & 6pm – 10.30pm
Sunday: 10am – 4pm & 6pm – 10pm
Restaurant
Monday: 12pm – 3pm
Tuesday to Friday: 12pm-3pm & 6pm-10:30pm
Saturday: 11am – 4pm & 6pm – 10:30pm
Sunday: 11am – 4pm

Review: Bageriet, Covent Garden

Scandinavian countries are perhaps more famous for design rather than their food. Yet this might be changing, perhaps led by Noma, a two Michelin-star restaurant in Denmark, consistently ranked as one of the best restaurants in the world. It’s reputation certainly goes some way to debunking notions of Scandinavian cuisine as purely meatballs and pickled herrings.

However, much as I would like to claim to weekly dine in Michelin-star places, reality is somewhat different. So for a more accessible avenue into tasty Scandinavian treats, it’s worth seeking out a bakery. I’d previously sought out semlor (Swedish Easter buns) and had been impressed by Daniel Karlsson who ran an order-only bakery, Bageriet.

Very fortuitously, Daniel has decided to expand his business and has opened Bageriet as a little café in Covent Garden, serving flat bread sandwiches and all kinds of sweet things.

The cakes are just beautiful and there is a lot of choice. As well as the classic cinnamon buns, highly recommended are the vanilla buns/ vaniljbulle as they balance cardamom perfectly with the creamy filling.

We found the custard bun was way too skimpy on the filling, but the espresso cake was fabulous – it was like a firmer version of tiramisu.

Custard bun - bit sparse on the filling — Custard bun – bit sparse on the filling

Espresso cake - tiramisu has evolved — Espresso cake – tiramisu has evolved!

There are a couple of small tables inside and one tiny table outside. Rose Street is fairly quiet so it’s a good escape from what can be a hectically busy area. At £2.45 for a cinnamon bun to eat in, prices are edging towards Scandinavian levels but we can’t fault the quality. So venture forth, go Swedish, and get some attractive cakes to adorn that Ikea coffee table 😉

Website: https://www.facebook.com/BagerietLondon
Where: 24 Rose Street, WC2E 9EA
When: Monday – Friday 9am-7pm; Saturday 10am-7pm; Sunday – closed.

Review: Hush Brasseries, St Paul’s

“I’ll just have a quick lunch. After all, I have an exam on Thursday.”

SIX HOURS LATER…. my friends and I re-joined the outside world. Hush Brasseries, already established in Holborn, have recently opened in St Paul’s and offer all-day dining, with breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea menus, and even ‘brown bag’ take-out lunches for a fiver.

We called in for the soft opening offer, which gave us 50% and a free spritzer. We ordered Chenin Blanc & Elderflower with Violet Liqueur and topped with Lemonade (£4.95), which was fantastic – subtle and not overly sweet. I ordered a Peach Tea – Camomile Tea, Peach Juice & Honey (£3.95), which was no match in comparison, although again, it wasn’t too sweet as is so often the case.

Half price food meant that we just *had to* order three courses. With a different starter/main/dessert each. So here follows a comprehensive review of their menu.

Starters

Caesar Salad with Poached Egg and Bacon (£5.95) – Described by my friend N as the best Caesar salad she had eaten out in London, the portion was generous and the ingredients crisp and fresh.

Lemon Sole Fish Fingers with Tartare Sauce (£6.95) – Very tasty, if a little small.

Dressed Dorset Crab with Avocado and Melba Toast (£7.95) – Light, zingy and refreshing. My friend J was seriously impressed.

Pulled Pork, Yorkshire Pudding with Apple and Calvados (£8.95) – This was my choice because I am a meat fiend. The pork was tasty but the meat was not as moist/soft as it could have been. The Calvados was not detectable and the gravy was too heavy. I found the flavours didn’t quite hang together, although the idea sounds good in theory. I’d like to see this dish reworked.

Mains

Crispy Duck Salad with Honey and Mustard Dressing (£12.25) – The duck was coated in hoisin sauce, which I absolutely love, but some might find a little overpowering the context of the salad. I thought the chillies could have been more finely chopped but overall, this dish was extremely satisfying in the concoction of flavours it offered.

Roast Cod with Béarnaise Sauce, Frites (£15.95) with a side of Minted Peas and Broad Beans (£2.95) – This dish was supported by the béarnaise sauce because the cod was a little underwhelming on its own. The chips were perfectly crisp.

8oz Scottish Rib-Eye Steak with Frites (£16.95) – This was my choice and sadly the most disappointing dish of the evening. I asked for it medium-rare and it came medium, although unpleasantly charred on the outside. The meat itself was lacking in flavour and I almost considered breaking my “finish everything on my plate” rule because eating the steak was a bit of a chore rather than a pleasure.

Taglierini pasta with Half Lobster, Chilli and Garlic (£18.50) – the star of the evening. I only sampled a bit of the pasta but it had a rich combinations of flavours and – if I remember correctly – used fennel to great effect (I find fennel often overpowering so I was very impressed).

Desserts

Classic Crème Brulée (£5.85) – J: “This is the best crème brulée I’ve ever tasted.”

Mars Bar Cheesecake with Crème Fraiche (£5.95) – N: “I want to marry this dessert. It’s not for good times or bad times, because there will never be bad times.” I also tackled this dessert, with emphasis on tackled. It is huge and very rich although the tangyness of the crème fraiche really helped to counteract the sweetness. Eating this cheesecake provides very many good times.

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Pot (£4.95) – This is like a very dense chocolate mousse that is served warm. The chocolate itself is of superb quality but the dessert is served with orange sprinkled on top. And it’s a really strong orange flavour, which somewhat detracts from the chocolate even if you love orange.

Chocolate Brownie with Earl Grey Ice-Cream (£5.45) – The brownie was rich and moist but the Earl Grey ice-cream caused a storm.

J: “I want to fill my fridge with this ice-cream!”
L: “Forget the fridge – I want to fill my face!”

My friends were so impressed with the desserts that they demanded to meet the dessert chef but he was apparently quite intimidated by the prospect of meeting four females who had been proposing to his puddings, and decided to remain in the kitchen!

Late afternoon

Another friend joined our group. Our conversations continued.

I was very kindly given a complimentary cocktail and so I sampled their ‘Wall Street’ cocktail (£7.50) – Russian Standard Vodka, honey, apple juice, fresh passion fruit and raspberries. The flavours created a seamlessly smooth crisp and refreshing drink.

This decided it: we will return even just for a dessert and cocktails evening.

It was approaching dinner time and we were full. Sleepily and happily, we staggered into the outside world after nearly six hours. … Hmm … I was supposed to be studying for an exam? Never mind. My food coma made everything seem all right.

Hush Brasseries 4/5 – Hello delicious desserts and drinks.

Food 3.5/5 – The starters and mains ranges from average to very good, but the desserts are fantastic.
Value 3/5 – Standard for London and food quality.
Atmosphere 5/5 – Laid back. Spent 6 hours there without notic
Service 5/5 – Prompt, not pushy. Efficient yet warm.

Website: http://www.hushbrasseries.com/
Where: St Paul’s – 1 Ludgate Hill, EC4M 7AA; Holborn – 95-97 High Holborn, WC1V 6LF
When: St Paul’s: Mon-Fri 8am – 10.30pm; Saturday 9am – 10.30pm; Sunday 9am – 10pm / Holborn: Mon-Fri 8am -11pm;
Saturday 9.30am -11pm; Sunday – closed.