Japan and Autumn: An Ode to Pumpkin

Something that we don’t have so much in the UK is pumpkin. I’m sure all you Americans are squealing “But what about pumpkin pie?” Well, we do without it. Although I’m pretty sure it would improve my life.

As mentioned previously, seasonal food is a big thing in Japan so expect a ridiculous re-flavouring of just about everything every month. This autumn, I seem to have missed out on all the sweet potato and gone straight for the pumpkin.

Let me introduce you to two very popular sweet things in Japan that are total Japanisations of familiar Western products.

1) Harajuku crepes

Pumpkin crepe
Pumpkin crepe

Harajuku – the pop culture epicentre of Tokyo – has been popularised through artist like Gwen Stefani, eager to absorb and advance it’s colourful melange of fashion. Nowadays, it doesn’t seem to host as many lolitas or cosplayers as its reputation suggests but it’s still the place to go to soak up teen culture. Just like the fashion, the food has to be sugary sweet to match.

Thus, we have the crepes. There are savoury versions but I stare at the neon plastic displays and think that the savoury food might be exactly that: neon and plastic. Not that the sweet stuff is much better, of course. But I hope you didn’t order a crepe looking for a quality dessert – this is all about a sugar hit wrapped in vaguely warm batter topped with the mildest hit of flavour.

And, in autumn, there’s pumpkin pie with pumpkin ice-cream. Did it taste of pumpkin? No. Did I sort of regret it? Yes. But sometimes these things have just got to be done. The crepe places are always colourful and sometimes lit up like this.


They’re not to be confused with all the other colourful and lit up stores in Harajuku…


2) Egg custard tarts

Pumpkin custard?
Pumpkin custard?

A cursory glance at the big Internet thing tells me that there’s a bit of a debate as to where these originate from. Portugal, England, France…. Middle Ages…Wherever, whenever – it’s definitely not Japan! But these are super-popular out here. I used to get chocolate cream ones in Kyoto. Of course, matcha (green tea) flavour is also available because matcha manages to enter almost anything sweet in Japan.

This autumn, I decided to say hello to the pumpkin custard tart. And whilst I got it from the Tokyu Food Show branch of Andersen, a respectable bakery chain, I can tell you very firmly that pumpkin should never breed with egg custard tarts. It looks beautiful though.

Author: Phoebe Amoroso

Phoebe Amoroso is a Tokyo-based reporter, multimedia journalist and storyteller. Hailing from the UK, she moved to Japan in 2014 and has since been shouting about the country to all who will listen. She divides her time between covering breaking news and producing feature stories for TV; writing about everything from business and tech to food and travel; and guiding hungry visitors who want to sample the best of Japanese cuisine. When not working and/or eating, she can often be found running up a mountain or cycling by the sea.

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